MARI-LIIS BUNDER
character & costume design for audio-visual works
MARI-LIIS BUNDER
character & costume design for audio-visual works
character & costume design
character & costume design
character & costume design
Baltic Filmskills
2021-2023
Role: researcher
Field: art department
Assignments: art department occupation research, occupation description document setup, translation, editing; micro-credential courses development
Employer: Estonian Filmmakers Association / Eesti Kinoliit
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FILM SKILLS is a project that brings together Estonian, Latvian, and Lithuanian partners – three film schools and two film industry organisations – with the aim of developing occupational qualifications’ standards for film occupations as a recognition interface between the labour market, higher education institutions, and other forms of training.
FILM SKILLS aims to align the needs of the film industry with the applied and academic approaches of higher film education.
The Human Embedded in Garment
2020
Master of Design thesis
Major in Fashion & Costume Design
Oslo National Academy of the Arts, 2020
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Thesis supervisor Christina Fossaas Lindgren
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ABSTRACT
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This thesis project explores alternative costume design possibilities through combining the aesthetics of biological (human) and synthetic (sartorial) matter.
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The concept aims to visualise bodies (costumes) of fictional characters in a non-traditional perspective. It replaces fabrics with the imitation of human skin to show “what if” the details that build fictional characters were resembling to biological human matter and not created through the alienation of abstract aesthetics. What if being human becomes a fantasy in itself?
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If clothes are creating new physical forms by which people are fragmenting their own bodies, I look answers for why it happens and what could lie under the need to destroy the naturally generated figure. But this also suggests that the body has become a design object in itself and by re-creating the longed-for silhouette, it still might imitate the biological material of the human - as where the creativity begins and ends is within the mind of oneself.
Selection from theoretical research
THE DESTRUCTIVE BEHAVIOUR
A thought about self-harm visualises an image of radical violence towards one’s body. But it isn’t always an extreme activity, one can do it in almost without noticing. The central characteristics of such behaviour in any case is the deliberate violence, “where the victim and perpetrator are one” (Pickard, 2015).
Considering Sigmund Freud’s division of human instinct, there’s a polarity in each individual: loving (unifying, sexual) and aggressive (destructive). He explains these two as a sense of drive towards something: the drive towards love for objects require a supplement drive to possess (Freud, 1940). Freud’s speculation continues with a note that in every organism there is a destructive force in which it has the end purpose to become an inanimate material. He also notes that the self-destructive behaviour is a natural lust embedded in humans.
In “The Plague of Fantasies” Slavoj Žižek positions disfigurement under the act of violence (Žižek, 1997). While humans are fantasising about their bodily matter, in which the physical form is constantly re-designed into something else from the biological choice, I couldn’t agree, but propose this as a function of the creative mind of humans - the intuitive need to solve a “problem” for a better cause. In this case, the bodies of our own.
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THE ARTIFICIAL BODY
The experimental notion towards body augmentation and different fashions have been a central part of cultural definitions and evolvement throughout history. The body has been considered historically as the base for cultural variety. Nowadays, it most certainly hasn’t disappeared, but keeps on thriving towards the ideal human physical condition. During the past decade (and ongoingly in the current one), the body has reached a phenomenal position, in which body-positivity opened an exploration of the physical component of humanity and established the human-material as a conceptual source for design and art investigations.
Clothes are the closest artificial objects that visualise the imaginary character of the Self. They displays each person’s vision of a desired bodily figure.
In the context of performing arts, the fictional character is gaining a physical existence through the costume - it enlivens the character emerging from an intangible source before invading the actor for its own agency.
The same concept applies on a character walking the streets - the fantasy each person has created of oneself. Costume is a body that can be taken off (Monks, 2010).
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Clothes allow people to enhance or disable their own bodies, yet by this, it re-designs the biological appearance or bodily matter through the aid of artificial. So there must be a longing, a hidden desire for a new anatomical structure, a fantasy enlivened by the re-constructive function of what people can wear.
This furthers my exploration by asking: if the garment is re-building the body’s physical and material structure, is there another body situated in between the wearer and the clothes? If the human’s biological form is changed due to synthetic material, could it be, that the fantasy embedded between the carrier and the garment is actually made out of imaginary flesh and skin, a fictional anatomical body? If objects and man-made material are embodying people’s characters, I wonder, if the imagination visualises the true nature of these things as an interpretation of the human itself?
“Flesh and idea are intertwined when the body reflects on itself in the
simultaneous act of perception and communication as seeing the seen and seeing seeing”
(Heinrich, 2012).







Model: Maarja Johanna Mägi